The Multimeter Junkie reviews the Simpson 260-6P analog multimeter.
A fuse is a very thin wire, which either melts or vaporizes when too much current flows through it. The thin wire may be made of aluminum, tin-coated copper or nickel. The resulting open in the circuit stops current flow. In electronic equipment, most fuses are cylindrical glass or ceramic type with a metal cap at each end! The current rating also can be seen in one of the two metal end caps. There are two popular physical sizes: 1 – ¼ X ¼ – inch and 5X20mm. The 1 – ¼ X ¼ – inch size is used in many automobiles. You’ll find both sizes in many electronic equipment, but the smaller 5 X 20mm has become more common. Fuses are available with current ratings from 1/500 Ampere to hundreds of amperes.
Purpose of Fuses
The purpose of a fuse is to open an electronic circuit when current flow exceeds a certain amount, determined by the rating of the fuse. Opening a circuit under high current conditions can save electronic components from damaged and prevents overheating, which could cause a fire.
Types of Fuses
There is two basic types of fuses: fast acting and slow blow. The fast acting type will open very quickly when their particular current rating is exceeded. This is important for analog meter movements, which can quickly be destroyed when too much current flows through them, for even a very small amount of time. Slow blow fuse have a coiled construction inside. They are designed to open only on a continued overload, such as a short circuit. The purpose of coiled construction is to prevent the fuse from blowing on just a temporary current surge.
Do not use a slow blow fuse in place of a fast acting fuse. It may not open fast enough to prevent components damage under a high current condition. It’s not harmful to replace a slow blow fuse with a fast-acting fuse, but it will probably open up unnecessarily every now and then when the equipment is first switch on. A blown fuse can tell you something about your service problem. Often the glass case of the fuse appears clear, and you can still see the broken pieces of the fuse element. This means you have the kind of problem that causes a slow, gradual overload on the power supply. Some fuses even die of old age. But if the inside of the glass fuse is discolored, and there is no trace of the fuse element (the center connector), you know that the center connector was destroyed quickly and violently, using a lot of heat. The fault was a short circuit or other problem that caused a lot of current to flow very quickly.
Is some cases a fuse will open up fast enough when there is a surge so that other components aren’t damaged. If this is the case, replacing the fuse with one of the same type and rating restores operation. Unfortunately, a high probability exists that if a fuse blew, something in the circuit it was protecting shorted out. In this case, a replacement fuse blows right away. The blown fuse can easily be replaced by a new one, after the overload has been eliminated when come into replacement. Use only the same current and voltage ratings as the original. The common type and current rating of a fuse in a monitor are slow blow 2A to 5A. When you buy replacement fuses, get several – you can easily use all of them while you’re troubleshooting an elusive problem.
Testing Fuses
Turn the power off and remove the fuse from the circuit to check with a multimeter set to the lowest ohms range. Connect the probes to both end of the fuse. You may check the fuse while it still in circuit. A good fuse should showed continuity or read 0 ohm. A blown fuse is open which reads infinity on the meter.
Crystal are use to keep the frequency of the clock from drifting. If the signal from this clock stops, or is weak, or the pulses begin to vary, the electronic equipments might show intermittent faults or might stop altogether. The microprocessor pins that hold the crystal are usually called OSC IN and OSC OUT as shown in Figure 1 and the frequency is marked on the crystal. Typical examples of crystal oscillator frequency are 3.58MHZ, 4MHZ, 8MHZ, 24MHZ etc.
Testing Crystal
Crystals are quite fragile components because of their construction. Unlike a resistor or capacitor, if you drop one on the ground from a decent height, its 50-50 bet whether it will work again. Testing the crystal is not a breeze either. You cannot just take out your trusty multimeter and plug the crystal in it. In fact, there are three right ways to test a crystal: -
(a) Using Oscilloscope
A crystal produces a sine wave when excited. It is appropriate then, to see a waveform representative of a sine wave on the clock pins. If the clock is not functioning properly, replace the crystal. In most cases this should solve the problem since microprocessors are usually very reliable. Check the crystal with power on.
(b) Frequency Counter
Frequency Counter can be use to check the frequency of the crystal. The reading must be taken when the equipment power is switch “on”. Place the probe of frequency counter to the crystal pin and read the measurement. Be sure that your frequency counter meter has the range that is higher than the crystal frequency you are measuring.
(c) Crystal Checker
With this method, usually the crystal is placed in the feedback network of a transistor oscillator. If it oscillates and the LED is lighten up, this mean that the crystal is working. If the crystal doesn’t work, the LED stays off. Instead of using LED, some other crystal checker uses a panel meter to indicate if the crystal is working or not.
Well its always a good thing to know what ohms your subwoofer is so you know how much power your putting to it when you hook it up so I made a video showing you how to see how many ohms your subwoofer is using a multimeter
If the battery on your cordless drill does not hold a charge or it runs down quickly, it may need to be replaced. Cordless drill batteries can wear out over time. The performance of the battery can also deteriorate if the battery has become damaged. Using a multimeter, can be tested to determine if they need to be replaced.